How do you feel about this latest fashion week?
What prevails is enthusiasm and vitality. There's a lot of creative energy, but there's also a very special, unique atmosphere. It's like being back with your family.
What's the main difference between Paris and other capitals?
Paris is the undisputed leader of the fashion capitals; it's here and only here that you become. I love New York and London for the creativity they inspire, and for finding new designers. Milan is more traditional, but it's finally coming into its own with brands like The Attico, Cormio and GCDS. A very Italian, punchy avant-garde is ushering in a new generation.
What has changed the most since last season? Over the last few years? What has driven this change?
The key factor is, of course, the increasing pace of digital technology and the quest for buzz through social media. And then the preponderance of celebrities. It's a circus, a wild ride but one that has the world dreaming. There have never been so many fans outside fashion shows. During the pandemic, people questioned the fashion show. I said it would never disappear because it was our very own rock concert—and here we are! Thousands of fans at the gates preventing guests from entering.
What place do you give to influencers as opposed to the press when it comes to invitation requests?
There are quotas for each house, and everyone has their own priorities, but it's a good mix. Personally, I need all the people who make up our ecosystem, from traditional media to influencers.
What keeps you passionate about your job?
Discovering new talent and being surprised by each collection. I'm always amazed and seduced by the creativity of the collection concepts, the crazy ideas of the designers who tell their stories without ever repeating themselves. There's also the emotion and friendship that this profession constantly inspires and reinvents. There are some wonderful people in fashion, and we're also in an absurd world where anecdotes abound. In short there's always something going on.
By Laurence Benaïm
