A Feel for Fashion: Mademoiselle Yulia

Tokyo-born Mademoiselle Yulia has become a style icon in Japan and beyond. The music star has found career success through DJing and singing, favouring a mix of technopop, punk and dance genres. Alongside her many albums and collaborations, she pursues her passion for kimono styling, transforming Japanese tradition into a modern trend.

What creates an emotional response for you in fashion today?

Fashion has always been the means of self-expression. I was never good at expressing myself with words – I think this is very Japanese. Fashion has made me more sociable, and connected me with friends who resonate with me. Fashion has also taught me about a part of the world I didn't know, and it has even changed my perspective. I am now working on kimono styling, and I credit my passion for fashion for helping me rediscover the beauty of this ancient Japanese folk costume. The works of Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Eiko Ishioka, and many other designers and creators have taught me that the kimono is actually a garment that can be enjoyed as fashion.

Often we see several designers arriving at a similar idea during a season. How do you explain this creative intuition?

I think it is natural for designers at the forefront of the fashion industry to propose what they feel is necessary and valuable. I believe that designers are sensitive to the trends of the times and incorporate them into their creations as their personal point of view. And today, since we have social media, the fast cycle means that we are all looking at similar information. Even though we live in the same era and are in the same industry, I still believe that the breadth of what designers see, which is not limited to fashion, leads to the uniqueness of their creation.

How do you feel about designers expressing or interpreting their worldviews in their collections?

I love collections that show designers' worldview to such an extent that I want to resonate with it and [absorb] what I don't know. I want to feel the designers' personality and a piece of what they have seen and touched in their life. It's always exciting to see how creators express their worldview in their collections as if I'm watching a movie. It may not necessarily be what everyone wants, but that's what makes a great collection.

How would you like to see fashion evolving this year?

I think it is easier than in the past for anyone to sense the trends. So on the contrary, I would like to see collections by designers who ignore such things and create their own vision with high skills and unique ideas. It does not need to be flashy or eccentric; I think the essence of unexpectedness will come from the culture of art, music, literature and other influences that the designer has lived and been influenced by.

This interview has been lightly edited for clarity.