"We can no longer afford to wear blinkers."
Recently, there's been a notable surge in the popularity of "vintage." What's your take on this trend, and does fashion's pivot in this direction captivate you?
It's more than just a trend. We're witnessing something permanent: a shift in consumer habits that aligns with our previous inclinations towards items and furniture. At fourteen, I loved thrift shops. But back then, second-hand was frowned upon, it implied you couldn’t afford a new piece. In certain circles, it simply wasn't the norm. The Rétro collection by Saint Laurent marked a movement initiated by trendsetters like Paloma Picasso. Now, I have two children, aged 30 and 28, and they’re both deeply immersed in vintage fashion. There's no reason for this to end. It offers a unique way to express oneself, and frankly, in this new market, the quality-to-price ratio just isn’t there.
What reason do you have to be optimistic about the future of fashion?
Fashion has always been a reflection of the times. Today, fashion is facing a difficult moment, because we are in troubled times. There are some very positive things, such as the real democratisation of communication through social media. It's easier today when there's a voice to be heard, to express something. And vintage allows more people to access quality pieces.
How do you see artificial intelligence contributing to fashion?
Artificial intelligence is far from me, and far from what I like about fashion. I'd rather hear about artificial sensitivity... I'll have to wait and see.
What do you think has changed most in fashion in recent years, and this year in particular?
Once again, the biggest phenomenon is the democratisation of fashion… There's also communication: we no longer watch fashion live, we watch it on a screen first. People design clothes based on the images that can be produced using them. At the moment, I do not see any great talents producing any revolutions, or waves worthy of those of Azzedine Alaïa or Margiela: those who changed everything, the eye, the spirit, the mentality.
What is your fashion mantra for 2025?
Fashion should try to overcome its individualistic stance and move towards something that embodies a common interest. Fifty years ago, we still had a carefree attitude that justified this. What I'd like to see is less self-absorption. I'll always be interested in the mechanisms of seduction, but it's complicated in the current context. I think fashion is missing the mark a bit by not being open-minded. We can't keep putting blinkers on. I still want to be amazed.
How do you see yourself in the fashion world today?
I'm very much a satellite person. I'm going back to my first love: clothes.
By Laurence Benaïm.
