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A Feel For Fashion: Paul Sinclaire

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From his early career at American Vogue (1984-90) to Mirabella magazine with the legendary Grace Mirabella, and then onward to l'Uomo Vogue and Vogue Italia with Franca Sozzani, Paul Sinclaire’s body of work as a stylist and fashion director also comes with decades of remarkable encounters and anecdotes. But to hear him tell it, “My whole career has been built on discretion. I think I’ve lasted all these years for that very reason. I love the past; I love a great reference. I live in the now, I live for today, and I look to the future. But I don’t think it’s about me. Even editorials, which have been somewhat influential, if not very influential, it’s not about me.” While Sinclaire keeps certain major, ongoing projects under wraps, he has contributed more recently to titles such as Dust, Document Journal and Behind the Blinds and has just accepted the role of fashion editor at large for Harper’s Bazaar Italia. A raconteur with a rich memory bank of times with Richard “Dick” Avedon, Peter Hujar, Deborah Turbeville, Anna Wintour, the late Mary McFadden and countless other fashion icons, Sinclaire possesses an unmatched perspective on the industry. When asked for a photo, he shared one from his deep past – taken by none other than Robert Mapplethorpe.

This season marks 50 years of fashion weeks in Paris. What, for you, makes Paris Fashion Week® unlike any other?

It just is because it is, one hundred percent – and no matter what is going in the world, no matter what is ever happening. I think I attended my first Saint Laurent show while I was still in school at Yale in the early ’80s before I started at American Vogue. It was such an extraordinary influence. One isn’t moved by shows today like in those days. There was Gaultier – those extraordinary collections he showed at the Salle Wagram; the theatrics and the production and the consideration and sheer absolute marvel of it all. Somehow you only get that in Paris. 

 

What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?

I think every generation finds the optimism within their life. For me, there has to be a surprise, something that moves you, that makes you feel it is modern. Like Anthony Vaccarello’s stocking collection last season. It’s what turns the wheels. 

 

Who or what will drive the greatest change in fashion this year?

Anthony Vaccarello. I think he’s one of the few designers who goes beyond just thinking about one idea. He’s one of the few people who has gone to the legacy of the house, I feel Yves when I see a Vaccarello show for Saint Laurent. You feel the DNA, the spirit.

 

What impact might you hope to have on fashion this year? 

Keeping it relevant. I guess I am a survivor of the fashion industry. I think I have been really lucky my whole career. I have always focused on being creative, not commercial. That was a privilege. I do what I want to do because I believe in it. And all these years later, I feel lucky to still be part of a conversation. 

 

Can you suggest a fashion mantra as we look ahead to ’25?

Just be! Just be kind, be cool, be optimistic, be fabulous. Whatever comes after, but in the end, it’s just be. 

 

This interview has been lightly edited. 

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