What excites you in fashion right now?
All the up-and-coming designers carving out their spaces in the industry. The notions they’re confronting and exaggerating, how they conceive of their customers, and the worlds they’re building. I tend to think of designers (even if emerging) as not only makers of clothing, but of history. That said, I think their brands are positioned well to fulfill fashion’s promises, which are always rooted in a sense of ‘newness.’ I’ve also been geeking out over what celebrities wear to the shows. I’m talking about Cardi B, Jerry Lorenzo, Erykah Badu, and of course, Tracee Ellis Ross! They strike the perfect balance between natural style and giving us something to look at, which is the best fashion to me.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
Thom Browne exists. He’s making clothes people enjoy and putting on these brilliant shows everyone wants to watch. I’m not sure what else one could want from a brand. I hope this inspires more American designers to produce with a similar level of artistic genius. America is a big, vehemently consumerist place, but it has something to say. On a more micro-level, I’m hoping all the recent fashion newsletters on taste and ‘personal style’ talk encourage consumers to shop more intentionally.
In what ways do you think AI might benefit fashion?
I recently learned that fashion students are using AI to make fashion films for marketing campaigns. That’s really cool. At the moment, I think Telfar is making the most convincing case for artificial intelligence in fashion. It just opens up opportunities to see more novel and exciting things. It can also streamline a lot of operational processes, which, in addition to more creative uses of the technology, is how companies are using it. I think the challenge that fashion brands face when using AI is figuring out how to make it feel authentic – that’s ultimately what wins consumers over. But it could be a real game changer for the industry if used when and where it makes the most sense.
Who or what will drive the greatest change in fashion this year?
Fashion labels that successfully craft and project a holistic brand image will drive change this year. And in a sea of algorithmic content, consumers want honesty from brands: real and persuasive narratives, genuine collaborations, and sincere storytelling (as sincere as the fantasy of fashion can be.) These are central to world-building, and any brand with endurance has found success in doing it. They also point to a greater cultural shift we’re experiencing, wherein our tolerance for force-fed ideas has shrunken, and an appetite for originality has expanded. There’s also potential for the bold, unconventional voices shaping discourse to be cemented within fashion’s establishment. If it will have them, all the other changes we’ll see will be amplified.
What impact might you hope to have on fashion?
I want to be the reason someone decides to read about clothes and take what they wear more seriously.
Can you suggest a fashion mantra for '24?
‘Dressing well is a kind of intelligence; you can think your way to it.’
