In the Eyes of Didier Barroso - Plaisir Palace

Neither quite a boutique, nor a gallery, Plaisir Palace turns 3 in 2024. Located in the Marais district in Paris, Plaisir Palace is first and foremost a small, constantly shifting theatre of curiosities. Nestling in the shadow of the former Carreau du Temple, Plaisir Palace evokes a modern boudoir, where every garment and every print speaks of a passion unmatched by second-hand shops. Here, meticulous curation prevails over accumulation. And that makes all the difference. Having devoted 15 years to contemporary art, from the Palais de Tokyo to the Yvon Lambert and Art Concept galleries, Didier Barroso has returned to his core passion: fashion. Or rather everything it has inspired in him, as he has been collecting clothes since the age of 15. André Courrèges, Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent are his all-time favourites. From his studies at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs in Limoges to the vintage venues across the world that he has discovered during his travels and at fairs (Miami, New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo), this passion has grown stronger and more refined. Plaisir Palace has become the Parisian rendezvous to meet his meticulous standards, his taste, and his vision.

What's your take on the current spirit?

There's an 'Archives' mood in the air. The Seventies remain a key source of inspiration, no doubt because that decade brought together architecture, construction and the fantasy of colour and prints in clothing.

Who do you think are the most attractive designers at the moment?

Yves Saint Laurent, because the purity of the line goes hand in hand with the exceptional use of colour. But also Azzedine Alaïa, Celine and Courrèges. These brands spark dreams because they embody the whole Parisian mythology of glamour, and above all, through them, the hand of couture prevails. This revival of icons corresponds to a new form of appropriation. Customers are turning what was meant to be worn in the evening into a daytime look, making it less dramatic and less bourgeois. They dare to wear sequins with chunky boots, gold leather jackets with jeans. It's not about nostalgia, but about Gen Z's desire to confront the very strict and historical codes. To capture a designer's point of view in a garment.

And when it comes to pieces?

It's the suit jackets, starting with those by Yves Saint Laurent and Jean Paul Gaultier, cut from beautiful materials and slightly oversized, that are very popular at the moment. Customers want sophisticated pieces that they can transform into current fashion. The most popular colours are brick and shades of blues, from turquoise to ultramarine. Pink is no longer in demand.

What lessons do you draw from this experience on a day-to-day basis? 

At a time when we're talking about sustainability, I've noticed that these pieces all have in common an extraordinary craftsmanship, an outstanding quality of execution. They don't have a logo, but they have a signature. And they fit in well with the desires of customers who want to consume less but better. And above all, to rediscover a deeper connection with clothing. It's an interaction with a piece, available in just one size and one colour, and that fosters desirability.

What do you enjoy most? 

Welcoming twenty-year-old girls who look at the pieces with fresh eyes and make them their own. Not just those who think that a Saint Laurent Rive Gauche quilted jacket "reminds" them of Isabel Marant, but the curiosity is there, refreshing. Word of mouth has caught on. And since it opened, Plaisir Palace has been welcoming an ever-growing number of visitors, from private individuals to costume designers (for Mascarade, starring Isabelle Adjani) and Emily in Paris stylists.