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HERMÈS PRINTEMPS/ÉTÉ 2025: ROOTS OF SKY

Focus

By Laurence Benaïm

A sleeveless leather bomber is as effortlessly worn here as if it had been made of cotton. From the city to the beach, from monochrome to equestrian prints as if melted onto silk, the material is supreme, the colour never clashes, blending into the atmosphere, worthy of Paul Eluard's "soirs d'été ramassés dans la voix du tonnerre" ("summer evenings gathered in the voice of thunder"). The sea looms large, omnipresent but never overpowering, breathing the air of freedom into these spinnaker shirts and hydro-reflective jackets. The palette - blotting pink, lychee, rusk and chocolate, ecru, aqua blue, mist and white - stretches, expands and wrinkles the silhouettes without embracing them.  Sweatshirts and shirts with removable scarf collars, and parkas in flowing cloud fabric, renew the spirit of urban holidays.

 

There's a certain grace in Véronique Nichanian's work, in mapping out her path and staying the course, in line and volume, while surrendering to the freshness of the trade winds, in embroidered gum-touch flowers and reversible technical canvas oversheets with a "sidereal cavalcade" motif. To capture the moment without ever losing the sense of time. Combining desire with rigour, sensuality with construction, so that a simple ribbed jacket finds in the eternity of a Barenia calfskin design bag, or an Etrivière holdall, the evidence of a signature whose movement is inscribed in its genes: Hermès. A house nurtured by the complicity of its collaborators and its professions, as demonstrated here by the contribution of Gregoris Pyrpilis, creative director of Hermès make-up, with these impressive transfers of equestrian motifs onto the skin, designed by the men's ready-to-wear studio.