Untilted Showroom SS 2023
Untitled presents a selection of relevant and emerging designers from across the city and beyond. In partnership with ESMOD International, the showroom aims to recast this capital of fashion culture with a fresh, creative perspective. Every season, buyers can experience installations that offer a clear view of each designer’s vision. For this second session of Untitled, there are 14 designers to discover.
Aerea
Aerea studio is a jewellery brand exploring the limitless possibilities of 3D technologies. All designs are conceptualised with a 3D modelling program, manufactured with 3D printing processes and finished by hand in respect to traditional craftsmanship. By using new technology, the brand aims to create pieces that change shape depending on the point of view. The label uses recycled and recyclable materials to develop long-lasting quality designs.
av vattez
av vattev is a London-based brand created by Antonio Vattev, a Central Saint Martins graduate with experience as a designer for Lanvin and Saint Laurent.
The brand’s aesthetic is built upon Antonio’s personal drive in building a community and exploring the past, present and future with no shortage of optimism. There is always something emotional and futuristic to the world of av vattev. Mixing modern luxury and traditional sportswear, Antonio creates a dialogue of subculture, heritage and futurism. “The whole concept behind my brand is to create modern but timeless garments.” says Vattev. Sustainability is one of the main focuses of the brand as 90 percent of the collections is made of deadstock fabrics, organic and upcycled materials and zero-waste techniques.
Cyril Bourez
Having graduated from la Cambre with experience at Lanvin and Raf Simons, Cyril launched his eponymous label in 2021, expressing a young and nonchalant elegance for men and women, focusing on constructions and details. An auto-fiction approach to our wardrobes’ archetypes is at the core of the brand’s identity. In June 2022, he became one of AZ FACTORY’s amigos, unveiling a collaboration collection of 35 unique pieces. The story: A girl leaves for a party in a rush, so she steals a T-shirt in her brother’s wardrobe, and cuts herself a dress in it.
Chloé Nardin
Chloé Nardin combines urban identity with heritage and nostalgic references. This season, the designer reimagined the brand logo, finding inspiration in Playboy’s legacy and the notion of romanticism as something more intentional and flirty. Drawn from a French 16th century tapestry and channelling the cheek of its iconic American counterpart, the logo is emblematic of the brand’s overall fascination with dualities. The ability to smash disparate references together reflects today’s youth and everyday modernity. Similarly rich and boundless, Nardin’s boys are tough and smooth, graceful city princes.
Crest
Established in 2019 by two childhood friends from Haute-Savoie, Crest is the result of a common desire to elevate menswear. Born out of an aspiration to create high-quality, functional long-lasting products, the French brand combines timeless pieces with contemporary silhouettes in carefully selected refined fabrics from local ateliers. Crest builds partnerships with passionate businesses, drawing attention to craftsmanship and sustainability. The label tries to always look back in order to move forward in the hope of offering a new experience for tomorrow’s fashion.
D.N.I
Documento Nacional de Identidad, aka D.N.I, was born in Paris in 2019 under the artistic direction of the Peruvian twins, Paulo and Roberto Ruiz Muñoz. Their main inspirations are childhood memories and anecdotes that marked the first part of the life they spent in Peru. The brand prioritises social and human respect, which is why the entire woven collection is assembled in Paris with a craftswoman. The brand supports Peruvian know-how through collaboration with Peruvian craftspeople for knitwear and embroidery.
Dhruv Kapoor
Since its inception in 2013, Dhruv Kappor stands for fearless self-expression, twisted modernity, and a strong emotional current. The brand is been synonymous with revolution, transformation and independence. By weaving empowerment into the fabric of the label, we aim to break the archaic rules of gender conditioned by social norms. Far from traditional aesthetic imagery, the brand depicts an endless play of past, present, and future. It is an unrestrained reflection of contemporary society and its interactions with the most diverse cultures where convention is re-defined in the tireless search of new perspectives.
In Gold We Trust
Launched in 2017 by architect Héloïse Chiron and Louis Marie de Bridiers, a tailor craftsman specialising in high measurement for men In Gold We Trust is a Paris-based label with a transgressive aesthetic. As a complementary and unpredictable pair, they question people’s beliefs in a world lost between spirituality and materialism. The brand advocates a philosophical, impertinent and societal approach where each collection is a manifesto that tends to upset conventions. The jewel is a medium of reflection.
Maxime
Maxime was founded by Maxime Fruit with the aspiration to translate the interior design universe onto the modern menswear wardrobe. The brand’s name comes from the latin “Maximus” which means the greatest. Focusing on exceptional fabrics, subtle detailing and simplistic silhouettes, the brand proposes a controlled assembly of practical, timeless pieces with artful versatility. Maxime’s editions are responsibly designed with the idea of comfort being fundamental, and uncompromising a certain effortless elegance and sophistication.
Mouty
Founded in October 2018, the Paris-based brand Mouty presents new contemporary menswear: a loose and suave style, a subtle and soft masculinity. The spirit is utterly free, self-assured, self-made, and self-liberated. Mouty’s founders, Bertille and Thomas, have established a language rooted in 1970s renegade cool that is catapulted onto 21st century streets. Mouty aims to take this dreamscape and transform it into a new and truly creative style using organic cotton, expansive floral prints, or rich printed silk, then shaping these into cerebral collections of flou ready-to-wear garments.
Ouest Paris
Founded in 2022 by Arthur Robert, Ouest Paris proposes designer streetwear and denim inspired by Paris, Biarritz and a dreamed California.
The label offers a cool and creative complete wardrobe, with most products manufactured within the E.U. and fairly priced. The collection includes raw denim, skate-inspired pieces, folk volumes, workwear details and durable fabrics. Proudly based in a multicultural city, Ouest Paris is aware of the environmental and societal issues of our times.
Perte d’ego
Perte D’ego tries to preserve traditional techniques and craftsmanship, promoting them globally to provide a secure future. For the brand, true luxury is the combination of the resources and hard work that go into making each piece by hand and ensuring that these “hands” can feed their families and live a healthy and happy life. Perte d’ego established a studio where artisans are hired on permanent contracts and paid fair wages which are significantly above the stipulated minimum wage. They are provided a healthy and positive working environment where focus is put on quality over quantity. Each design is made in small batches and is restocked only if there is sufficient demand for that design. By doing so, customers get the pieces they love and the brand eliminate waste and excess inventory.
REM
REM (short for rapid eye movement) refers to a specific phase of sleep, often characterised by vivid and phantasmagorical dreamscapes, where past impressions transform into novel expressions. Inspired by the freedom of this state of mind, the REM spirit is defined by anarchic individuality, cosmic energy and forward thinking modernity. This progressive wardrobe is marked by articulated archetypes, an imaginative use of engineered actions, and bringing architectural movements to each piece. Materials and patterns are grounded in genuine authenticity, recomposed into a post-modern context; natural fibres and tactile textures add a sense of familiarity to graphic colorus and animations.
Walk in Paris
Walk in Paris was founded in 2013 by Léo Walk and Gary Neveu with the intention to create a label uniting fashion, dance and design inspired by their own personal experiences and Paris. Both creatives are multidisciplinary artists, drawing links between painting, performance, fashion, poetry and much more.
The French brand aims to combine comfort and elegance. The style is inspired by a cultural and cosmopolitan Paris mixing diverse creative influences making the brand accessible to everyone.