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A Feel For Fashion: Malick Bodian

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As a model, Malick Bodian has an instantly recognisable presence on the runways and has walked two momentous shows this season: the final show of Luke and Lucier Meier for Jil Sander and Haider Ackermann’s debut for Tom Ford. But Bodian, who based between Paris and Senegal, is also increasingly recognised as a self-taught photographer whose eye for composition and poetic connection can be appreciated in editorials (Beyond Noise, M Le Monde, Vogue, Perfect) as well as fashion campaigns (Wales Bonner, Bottega Veneta, Chanel Haute Couture). Last year, his exhibition, ‘Sénégal, voyage temporel’ that ran during OFF Paris Photo and OFF Biennale Dakar documented his travels through his home country and the family traditions that transcend time. Behind or in front of the camera, Bodian continues to build on his artistic body of work while remaining immersed in fashion.

Where do you look for new ideas in fashion?

Where I find new ideas is always home. I think because, for example, the small city where I live, which is an hour from Dakar, it's like a new city in development and there's the main airport nearby, so there's a lot going on. And every time I go, it's like I'm traveling in time. It's like I'm part of the construction of a whole city. So that really inspires me a lot. And then when I go there, I also kind of forget about everything. Some things that I see over there have nothing to do with fashion, yet they inspire me here. But I would also say movies; I like to watch very old movies.

Where are you seeing change in fashion? 

For me, the biggest change is that I feel like we all came back to sort of a reality. Before, I feel like it was an exclusive world. And I feel like now, people are making clothes for everyone instead of for a certain type of people, which is very interesting. It's good to have a certain exclusivity for certain things, for luxury. But I think this also opens the doors for a new way of making clothes and a different mindset. For example, Jil Sander is a luxury brand, but the way they photograph their clothes is very real. It's very documentary. And that is something quite new. It’s the same with new designers.

Tell us something surprising about how you got to where you are today? 

Doing modeling is something I never expected to do. I always wanted to be a football player. But I think I am a very open-minded person, because I come from a world that has nothing to do with fashion. I'm very curious and I think this is what got me to where I am. When I started modeling, I realised that I was made to be a model – even though I never thought I could be a model, I'd never found myself beautiful. But I can adapt very quickly. I remember my style before fashion and now it's so different. I used to wear Adidas jogging pieces – very sporty, very football player. And now what I wear is the complete opposite, and I like it. 

What impact might you hope to have through your work?

I think through my work as a model, I'm very happy because when I started modeling, there were not many Black people at the shows. I used to feel sometimes alone. And genuinely, for me and some other models who started modeling before Covid, I think we kind of inspired some other people in a way. This is the impact I want to have as a model – to make some people realise that they are beautiful how they are. And as a photographer, I think my purpose is to inspire something very real, very positive. It took me a long time to realise what I wanted. But I know I am obsessed with documenting positive things. I always see documentaries and photographs of my country and my continent that I love, but they are very sad. And I want to show the positive side, the life. In fashion, I have the same mindset; I'm always trying to show a very bright, I would say hopeful, imagery. 

Can you share a mantra that speaks to this moment in time? 

Maybe this has nothing to do with fashion. But in general, I think we are a bit distracted by social media and all these tools, and I think we need to be aware – in a good way. 

This interview has been condensed and lightly edited.