What excites you in fashion right now?
I am amazed by the fact that young designers keep on dreaming and developing their own singular universe – no matter the context. They keep pursuing ideals of beauty and manage to create moments of grace. I have been particularly touched by what we see happening on the catwalk, such as the latest show by Jacquemus at the Fondation Maeght.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
In today’s world, I observe a generation of emerging designers eager to reinvent fashion and its old processes. Being very conscious of the collateral effects of the textile industry or the over-production of some fashion brands, they look for recycled, recyclable material as much as upcycling older garments. Somehow, I see a parallel with Yves Saint Laurent working with the best textile manufacturers of this time to give life to his creations.
In what ways do you think AI might benefit fashion?
I think it opens many possibilities I am not entirely aware of. I imagine it can help develop creative designs beyond the human’s mind and vision. Technologies are a tool that can prove incredible, I think of what Iris van Herpen did to imitate the world of nature. Her exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs really highlights a way to use all means available to develop avant-garde clothes.
Many of Saint Laurent’s creations are as relevant today as ever. How does some fashion transcend time?
Saint Laurent has been active during an extraordinary period of change from a social point of view, and consequently from a fashion aspect. He was the key player in this revolution of fashion designs aiming to serve, magnify and empower the woman of the 20th century. This means highlighting her figure, as much as giving her freedom in her moves according to a new contemporary lifestyle. Among the iconic looks that illustrate these strong ideas are the tuxedo, see-through pieces, jumpsuits or the saharienne. Yves Saint Laurent proves genius in creating timeless pieces. Just like works of art, of music or of architecture, his designs transcend their context of creation and remain relevant through time. We observe that they have also been disseminated and reinterpreted across all levels of the fashion industry. Since their very first appearance, the silhouettes fancied by Yves Saint Laurent have symbolised the perfect balance between elegance and originality.
Can you suggest a fashion mantra for ’24?
Less is more.
This interview has been lightly edited.
