Merging the style of two cities, there are trench coats juxtaposed with sun-bleached jackets and pants. Vintage swimming trunks, printed with lush florals, provided a counterpoint to satin dresses and lingerie. Classic tailoring and an interpretation of tweed twin sets proved unlikely bedfellows with nods to scuba-diving gear in tightly-knitted scuba tops. Prints like argyle and Hawaiian florals appeared spun with a psychedelic blurred effect to further the vision of an endless summer. In her research, Kegels drew from personal references like romantic vintage flower prints from an archive of family photos, in addition to images of lacquered wooden surfboards. This cocktail of chic and casual had a thrilling verve.
“It’s very important that a woman can be dynamic. One day she’s super elegant, the other day she’s sporty,” said Kegels, on a Zoom call from her studio in Antwerp.
What would you like us to know about the collection?
At the beginning of a collection, I like to dream and come up with stories in my head. I like to think about how the woman is feeling; what she’s doing; where she’s going; and what she’s seeing. After the last collection, I went to Los Angeles with my boyfriend and we spent some time in Malibu. It was such a funny atmosphere because you have the glamorous people in the hills and the hippie surfers in Malibu. When I came back from L.A., I started to make a story about a die-hard L.A. surfer falling in love with a chic Parisian woman, and how she tries to belong to his world but fails because she’s too classy and too chic.
How important is a concept or a point of departure when you’re designing a collection?
It would be impossible for me to create a collection without a concept because I dive very deep into research for my stories and concepts. It’s important to me that every collection will have a completely different vibe but to still have a through line that is present in every season.
What did you learn from your debut presentation last season?
To dare even more, to follow my heart, and be true to myself.
How does it feel to be part of a legacy like Paris Fashion Week®?
It’s surreal because it has such a rich history. I feel lucky to be part of a tradition. It’s crazy to be part of something that Coco Chanel was also part of; it’s a childhood dream. It was always my dream to be a fashion designer, but I would never have imagined to be part of this calendar.
What hopes do you have for your brand in the next five years?
I don’t like to think too much about the future or force things, but my goal is to make people happy with my clothes. I want to have a luxury brand that doesn’t have to be quiet the whole time. I would like to have a healthy business in the next five years that is a balance between craft and commercial. We will do our best.
This interview has been lightly edited and condensed.
