Cecilie Bahnsen's Dark Evolution

Given the ethereal quality of Cecilie Bahnsen’s oeuvre, leather might not be something you’d expect to see on her runways. For Fall-Winter 2024, the designer subverted our expectations with the introduction of the material, a tough counterpoint to the frothy creations that we have come to expect. There were examples of workwear, too, in chocolate brown shades. Chunky knits were sported over Victorian-inspired nightgowns. One might have anticipated that Bahnsen was preparing to switch gears: in recent seasons, she’s worked with Japanese denim to ground those signature diaphanous dresses. That was here again. While the whimsy of her organza layers and jacquard jackets provide a visual treat, a realistic application makes her work all the more appetizing.

The designer explained that she wanted to explore “a darker side of romance.” She deployed the motif of the apple, which she connoted to desire, love, and strength. Of course, the biblical representation of the apple is associated with temptation and that undercurrent of darkness was pervasive in the opening passage of 13 all-black looks, many in high gloss leather. What ensued were myriad takes on nightgowns. It was, she said, about “leaving the innocence behind a little.”

The Danish designer also alluded to the ordinariness of the apple which explains the grounding elements of the collection including oversized jackets by way of a collaboration with Technical jackets and oversized coats in collaboration with Mackintosh are hand-embroidered with laser-cut flowers. Her footwear partnership with ASICS (trainers given the quintessential CB treatment) continued while newly-introduced footwear comes from Diemme.

By Paul McLauchlan