Up-Close at Tranoï
Today is the last day to discover this latest edition of Tranoï with its selection of 27 creative brands on view at the Palais de Tokyo.
Six designers answer the elemental, unavoidable, most obvious question of all: What would you like us to know about this collection?
Arthur Robert (Ouest)
This collection is my first on my own. I am super proud of it. I had it in mind for a while, and the successive lockdowns gave me the opportunity to work on it, while dreaming of imaginary travels on Google Maps.
Andrea Zanola (Patchouli Studio)
Seeking Beauty through experimentation. My ideal man has no gender – beyond male and female. Looking at his silhouette is like looking in a mirror appreciating what we love about ourselves. When we know and accept who we are, we can see a way to true beauty. For Fall-Winter 2022, Patchouli Studio used ethical, certified recycled, and deadstock fabrics. All garments are the handmade sum of tradition and contemporary design.
Martin Liesnard (MWORKS)
We are unveiling this collection under a new name, MWORKS. We wanted to shift away from the eponymous, perhaps egocentric, name of our artistic duo, Mansour Martin, to reinforce the notion of exchange and sharing that is dear to us. To bring together under the same name all the artists, tailors, experts, and designers with whom we work. MWORKS is a global brand dedicated to sustainability, fashion and art. Designed as an “open hub.” The collection explores the notion of hybridity: a game of proportions that confront each other, elements of clothing displaced on others, but also modular pieces. We have worked with the talented illustrator, Jeanne Detallante, who created a stone motif that mixes brutalism and Art Nouveau. Our knitted items were made by Trois Tricoteurs, young solidarity entrepreneurs based in Roubaix who work with new technologies from Japan. The artist Aurélien Delahaies has hand-painted the logos on jersey.
Gabriel Figueiredo (De Pino)
For this Fall-Winter 2022 collection, De Pino explores femininity and seduction through freedom and surrealism. The brand takes inspiration from naïve craftsmanship, clashing “couture” aesthetics, and child doodles. Collections are built through a wide range of recycled materials with embroidery, crochet and tailoring. Silhouettes are exaggerated and aim to reinvent and explore one’s gender identity. A very joyful moment!
Iago Otero
Fall-Winter 2022/23 is a journey back to simpler times. The collection portrays a generation born in the ’90s, caught between an uncertain future, a placid past and a convulsive present living paycheck to paycheck. Millennials are going through life struggling to find their place in the world with no ambition at all or certainty on how their lives will turn out – only that they are shifting from adolescence to being fully grown-up.
Daniel Gayle (DenzilPatrick)
I would like you to enjoy the craftsmanship and romanticism we express through the collection as we explore the personal and social narrative of mens uniforms and sartorial dress codes.
These interviews have been lightly edited for clarity.