HERMÈS SPRING-SUMMER 2025: A summer of sensuality and sand
By Laurence Benaïm.
Ebony, chestnut (inspired by Barenia leather), camel, gold, warm sand. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, Artistic Director of Hermès, explored all these nuances in this ready-to-wear show, where transparencies and flesh tones celebrate sensuality at its very core. Sensual.
“The fishnet evoked transparency and lightness, while the fluid knits and gentle knitwear expressed a symbiosis with the body,” she said, celebrating her tenth anniversary with the fashion house, where she created an inspiring synergy of silk, leather, beauty, shoes, and belts.
A Birkin bag turned inside out, a long-zippedskirt in silk fishnet, a thin Médor belt fastened over high-waisted knickers — the body is freed from all shackles to reveal its extraordinary resilience, all in movement. No easy youthism, no equestrian caricatures. A fluid, adjustable coat, a silk twill jumpsuit, a fawn-coloured Barenia leather tote bag — nothing stands in the way of a gait lit up by bougainvillea pink jeans, the only hint of colour amidst the rather muted hues, like a line of lipstick on a face.
If the rustic sandals don't lighten the silhouette, the zipped piping and jackets fastened with tabs give these women of the sands a contemporary edge. “I started from the artist's studio as a place to celebrate creation — in this case that of Helen Frankenthaler, a painter of the abstract expressionist movement. The idea was not to reproduce her work, but rather to work from a particular point of view.”