The Craft of Shiatzy Chen
Many patterns were used in the design this season, where did this special inspiration come from?
Design Director Chen Tsai-Hsia draws inspiration from the Tangram, which has been popular in both the East and West throughout time. In fact, the process of fashion design – including pattern making and structure, garment section design, pattern creation, and styling – are just like the Tangram. By deconstructing the geometric shapes and with repeated attempts of various formations, the many faces and infinite vitality that are unique to fashion are thus shaped.
Which design or structure best represents the spirit of this collection?
Inspired by the Tangram, this season sees shapes including triangles, squares, and trapeziums reconstructed and reinterpreted. The geometric shapes form ingenious ideas and are fused with fashion. To start, a draped vest with crossed shoulder straps is paired with an above-the-knee skirt featuring the seven scrambled letters of the brand SHIATZY, highlighting the theme of this season. Next is the multi-layer classic band collar dress and coat constructed with seven pieces of garment sections and the silhouettes of Paradise Birds and orchids symbolising an Oriental cultural fusion with geometrically fragmented Pop Art original print pattern depicts the many faces of geometric symbols and the unique layering and changes in this collection.
As always, SHIATZY CHEN has adapted traditional Chinese clothing craftsmanship. What details, in particular, emerge this season?
This season, SHIATZY CHEN takes its most iconic embroidery craftsmanship to the next level. The geometric shape openwork on organza demonstrates the drawn thread technique of basket stitch in Su embroidery with remarkable hand embroidery work, which is merged with other techniques including the weng stitch and the French knot stitch. The exquisite embroidered floral patterns surface with such ease as if beautifully and delicately blooming from the fabric.
What are some trends explored in the collection?
We see how the classic SHIATZY CHEN mandarin collar fuses with the Western deconstructed design, and the retro contour of Western chic combines with the three-dimensional space of the dot, line, and plane. This original fabric design creates a whole new trend merging the vibrant and bold Pop Art strokes to redefine geometric shapes. Animated print patterns turn even the rational straight lines into sentimental art and fashion, all rewriting the definition of modern times.
What is an idea you wish to convey through the SS23 collection?
Drawing inspiration from the geometric shapes of the Tangram to blend Oriental and Western clothing craftsmanship, while integrating the changing possibilities sparked by imagination, essence and creation emerge. The dot-line-plane three-dimensional interpretation symbolises the glistening starlight that exemplifies infinite dexterousness, extending softly and converging into charming incarnations reflecting the infinite creativity of fashion design.
This interview has been lightly edited for clarity.
