ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING-SUMMER 2025: Dreamwood Forest

“The beauty of paper” is the theme of this Issey Miyake collection – a vision fuelled again by the poetic inspiration of Satashi Kondo and the Japanese studio. And if “the touch of paper gives you a feeling of being rooted,” it's within the space between reality and dreams that this collection takes us – or teleports us. Like a moonlit ceremony, someplace amidst the Floral Park of the Château de Vincennes, wind-coloured silhouettes emerged like translucent caresses; airy wrappings as if draped in the sky. Layers, twists, apron-like tunics, nothing weighs down these bodies whose large moon-coloured windbreakers seem to be cut from a woven partition. From the trousers with their huge pockets to the leafy glasses, the effects of suspension and trompe l'oeil, the surrealist utopia joins in this celebration of restraint. The show culminated in column-like dresses whose pleats merge into anatomical spirals, and jumpers that appeared to be drying on top of one another, only with one arm detached from the thread on which it was hanging. Floral prints on washed silk floated around a body in weightlessness: a butterfly-like body under suits made of translucent fabric, a dragonfly body that never would suffer from the heatwave; a statuesque body and all in discreet and ongoing homages to the master's woven sculptures, along with those photographed by Irving Penn. A season that played out like a contemporary immersive experience in a forest, bathed in the memory of trees and the soul of a past that breathes.