What excites you in fashion right now?
Creation above all. I have a carnal relationship with clothes. I love working with shapes and I owe this passion to Yohji Yamamoto. Attending his fittings at the studio in Tokyo was a kind of revelation for me. I fell in love with this drive to find the perfect balance between creativity and mastery of construction, imagination and line. When you follow the whole creative process, when you see things coming together, it's fascinating. I keep my childlike eye on things. Fashion shows are living moments. Sometimes a magical feeling is created between the colours, the shapes, the models, the light and the music.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
The energy shown by all the designers, including the younger generation, who have won the LVMH prize represented by the agency. I'm fascinated by the emotions they transmit, by their own optimism, and that's what gives a positive dimension to the whole creative process. A whole new generation has emerged and is nurturing fashion. The crisis has perhaps given a new impetus to this emerging creativity. In an era of standardisation and conformity, we're seeing a desire for freedom and singularity that is awakening fashion.
In what ways do you think AI might benefit fashion?
What's interesting about artificial intelligence is what it can bring to light in complete contrast. I'm thinking, of course, of craftsmanship, of working by hand, of that sense of imperfection that makes things so human, so moving.
Who or what will drive the greatest change in fashion this year?
What would be beneficial? It's a complex question, because for a brand to grow, it has to sell. And at the same time, I wonder how the market will be able to absorb so many proposals. I think excellence should come first, through apprenticeships, training and quality. There are far too many disposable products. The world of Instagram and Tik Tok, where everything is consumed in a second, can only lead to disaster. At some point, like the market, the brain will no longer be able to absorb so much information. The most beneficial change would be for us to buy less, but better.
What should change?
I would like the City of Paris to provide better support for fashion. For example, making public spaces, museums and institutions available to independent designers at reasonable rates. Everything is becoming increasingly difficult. The situation is worsened by the Olympic Games. It will be almost impossible to get around the centre of Paris from June onwards.
How does Asia continue to play a decisive role in your life?
Asia gives me a different way of looking at things, a different relationship with time, with things, with places, with beauty in general, an open-mindedness.
Can you suggest a fashion mantra for 2024?
Creation must be at the heart of everything. It's what allows us to dream, to make others dream, to feed ourselves intellectually and emotionally.
This interview has been lightly edited.
