CULTURE CLASH

Pharrell Williams's new position at Louis Vuitton, unveiled ten years after the worldwide triumph of "Happy" and "Blurred Lines", has set the Parisian scene abuzz: the singer-songwriter, musician, producer and artistic director has entrusted Jean Imbert, his friend and chef at the Plaza Athénée, with the task of staging a giant dinner for Louis Vuitton at the Pont Neuf.

From newcomers Burc Akyol, Koché to returning brands AMC, Youths in Balaclava, it seems that post-sportswear has become synonymous with an increasingly personal quest. From Paris to Lagos, luxury implies identity, the embodiment of individuality. Hence the desire for each house, each designer, to reassert their uniqueness, through a singular story – creativity shaped by craftsmanship. 

"I wanted to re-urbanise the wardrobe, to give it a bit more posture. I was too afraid of being stuck in an escapist mindset. I wanted to elevate it to sublimate it. I'm not running away," says Burc Akyol, finalist for the LVMH Prize 2023, and featured in the PFW Official Calendar for the first time. "Paris is mine again, and I feel at home with my twofold identity," asserts the Franco-Turkish designer, whose interpretation of the "kepenek" coat worn by Anatolian shepherds adopts a new, tuxedo-style approach. Fresh from his dreamy getaways to Pantelleria in Sicily, the essence of this season's collection has been drawn from the heart of the Orient, shaped by its sublime lines and sensuality. What's the title of his collection? Palm Gardens. "Clothing has become so functional that we've forgotten it is a playground for seduction. With this collection, I'm borrowing codes to bring a new audience into my private garden. I like the idea of setting things up without freezing them and creating an infinite circle in which I'll feel quite comfortable.” There lies the obsession.

Inspired by the film "Coco la Fleur Candidat," Vincent Frederic Colombo of C.R.E.O.L.E., a "quasi-self-taught island boy," promises a "clash between suit and overalls sprinkled with symbols of brilliance." Then there’s Youths In Balaclava; back in 2019, the Singapore-based collective brought to light by Dover Street Market, presented its "Lost in transit" collection.  For Summer 2024, 'Hybrid Moments' is meant to be a "haunting reflection of the world around us.” “Our collection is a stark reminder of the fragility of life and the harsh realities of our existence. A mix and match of camouflage fatigues, leather and denim combine with a personal commitment,” they explain. “Our collection is not only pleasing to the eye; it's about feeling alive. It's about finding comfort in the chaos and practicality in the darkness. We've stripped away the glamour and glitz of the industry, and what's left is a deconstructed aesthetic that speaks to the truth of our existence… Our collection asks the question: Who are you and what do you represent? Explore our collection and discover the power of street style fashion. We invite you to join us on this journey, to embrace the darkness and find beauty in the disruption. Because at the end of the day, it's not about what we wear; it's about who we are.”

Laurence Benaïm