While de Vilmorin imbues the rarified world of couture with a subversive streak, he doesn’t compromise the traditional values of the discipline. Here, he wanted to further his affinity for savoir-faire. In terms of fabrication, the studio spent time developing its own jacquard. They are hand painted with the designer’s signature artworks. For headpieces and accessories, he collaborated with various embroiderers and plumetiers (feather artisans) to bring each look to life.
What would you like us to know about this collection?
This collection is my second show, so I wanted to tell a story, to make a show like a film, just as I've already been able to tell stories through my various Haute Couture presentation videos. It's important this season to show the very essence of my brand with an ultra-narrative show. I wanted to tell a story inspired by the world of Agatha Christie or Tim Burton, where a murder has been committed and the victim's relatives find themselves summoned to the culprit's final trial.
Where do you source inspiration for your collections?
For this collection, I drew a lot of inspiration from 1980s horror films, from evil, austere creatures that we find visually disturbing. I wanted to bring out the cinematic side of the 1980s, which, in general, inspires me enormously. The music composed especially for the show is also very narrative-driven.
How important is Haute Couture in 2024?
In my opinion, Haute Couture aims to transport people away from reality, to tell stories so that they can escape for a moment and dream. It’s also an opportunity to put the spotlight back on traditional skills and savoir-faire because, in this digital age, it's easy to lose sight of the importance of these skills.
What do you hope for the fashion industry for the rest of 2024 and beyond?
I hope that the fashion industry will continue to make people dream, as it has already done at many shows this year, and that designers will also feel as free as possible to convey their message as they see fit. But also, that it becomes as eco-responsible as possible – to imagine a better world.
This interview has been lightly edited.
