Through the Eyes of Anne Isabella
Anne Isabella Rasmussen
The art of trompe-l’œil
Born in Strasbourg, this French-Danish designer studied at Central Saint Martins in London, then worked in Paris at Courrèges for a year, and then chose to live in Berlin to follow a friend and launch her brand. “It's a more versatile city. It's easier to start a project like mine, even if the dynamics are currently shifting.”
Anne Isabella Rasmussen draws inspiration from images: her grandmother in Denmark, a utopian aesthetic, a desire to rediscover the future and to rethink it freely, not through parody. “The influences of the ’60s and ’70s are always present,” explains this great admirer of the artist, Julio Le Parc, to whom she has dedicated the Spring-Summer 23 collection. “I like optical illusion, visuals that are both melting and geometric.”
Meanwhile, her Fall-Winter collection is called Ammonite. “This season, I have explored the depths of the sea. The pleats, whether printed or not, are inspired by shells,” she explains. There are pierced denim, metallic textures, crackled effects, honeycomb knitwear, spirals, natural colours – from beige to brown. “Comfort is key, but I'm very visual. It is through my eyes that I can explore new techniques, play with trompe l'œil elements.” Thus, the season has proven “more intuitive, with surprises,” reminiscent of Berlin, open to “randomness.”
What does she see first in a garment? “The collar, and the neckline, what frames the face. The small details, the buttons, their placement especially, can change everything. Fashion is the art of detail,” says the designer, who chose to present her collection at the Sator gallery in the Marais. And for the first time, she is proposing footwear. “A mix of cowboy boots and go-go boots” with small heels. Tto be comfortable while being noticed and remembered,” she says.