Noir in Bloom

Kei Ninomiya’s Fall-Winter 2023 Noir show at the Halle des Blancs Manteaux in the Marais opened with a cloud of iridescent petals casting beams of light across the runway. Underneath, a garden of blossoms on a coat appliquéd with countless anemones. The collection unfolded with whimsical bursts of flowers, woven knitwear with fringe detailing, and an insight into Ninomiya’s obsessive yet judicious approach to colour. His palette this season: pink, purple, and red. 

As ever, the contrast between the pristinely saccharine hues and signature all-black on full view as Ninomiya’s bucolic delights were strapped, bolstered, and harnessed with leather fastenings and straps, in addition to netting and metal chains. Some looks consisted of asymmetrical biker jackets and long wool A-line coats. Models were adorned with headpieces by Takuro Kuwata, some of which recalled John Chamberlain sculptures. The beauty of his designs were bound to a certain punk flair that produced a compelling visual effect. This season, the impact was in full bloom. 

“I am always trying to create something new and use new techniques. It is through the process of searching for new techniques that my creations take shape,” Ninomiya shared by email. 

What would you like us to know about this collection?

The key word for this collection is ‘bloom.’ I tried to make my collection evolve and bloom in a new way, adding new colours and new shapes. This collection is a mix of soft and hard, cute and punk vibes, with very contrasted elements. This time I used soft and sweet colours like pink and purple to make the black stand out in a different way. We also collaborated with the French brand Repetto for the first time, with four different styles of shoes. 

Evolution and improvement are related. What is one essential improvement the industry could be making?

Things can always be better. There are so many things that we could improve.

Are you using any technologies that contribute to the evolution of your collections?

I am always trying to find new techniques that are different from traditional sewing. This journey of looking for new ways of creation is driving my creative process and helping me evolve and make new things.

Photographer: Mélanie Rey

MakeUp: Amazing Jiro

Headpieces: Takuro Kawata

Hair: Ryu Miyazaki