JUANA MARTÍN
"To evoke the way flowers bloom and blossom in nature.” Juana Martín talks about her Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection.
What is the main inspiration behind this collection?
The collection is inspired by the spring—looking to nature and also to the feeling that transmits the Spanish spring. All the oldest traditions of Spain, like Holy Week or funfairs, occur during that season, so the aim is bringing the person who is seeing the collection to live and feel the deepest Spanish spring in all its aspects.
Are there any particular fabrics or colors that are linked to this "blooming moment"?
The blooming is reflected in the collection through the typical volumes of the brand. This season, we have used a tissue made of metal and silk that creates the shapes of the flowers; also the embroidery in transparent crystal that represents the morning dew in rustic materials of nature. All of the items of typical flora of Andalucía are represented through traditional items of Spanish fashion traditions as ruffles or the importance of flowers in Holy Week.
How do you combine the DNA of the house, its Andalusian roots, with a universal vision of beauty?
Giving value to traditions and customs is really important. The beauty of Andalusian traditions has inspired a lot of other iconic designers. I really can’t explain the beauty of our roots, but it’s absolutely fantastic, as it has been a source of inspiration through the years for a lot of Maisons – a universal inspiration.
What does it mean to defend tradition in a world that favors historical deconstruction?
It’s absolutely necessary to safeguard the traditions; we can’t lose them. Culture has a value that we can’t imagine. We can’t forget our roots and where we were born; it’s our way of living and feeling. I think tradition is not opposed to innovation, but if people really want to forget our customs, that gives me motivation to keep fighting for having them in my collections.
You are the first Spanish woman to present your collections during Paris Haute Couture Week. What does it mean to you to come to Paris?
It’s a huge pride but also a responsibility. It gives me emotion and I’m also afraid; I demand more of myself every season. This generates conflicting feelings, but I’m really proud to have this historic place in fashion.
What is your definition of allure?
Sobriety, elegance and quality. Beauty is not valued by shapes or lines, but by what it makes you feel.