Haute Couture, A Dior pulse

In Rocco Baldassarro's tailoring workshop, the Dior hand flew to the fairy realm. A bloomer in Bellini pink organza, shaped like the buds of a dandelion flower, seems made to take flight, while a black lace blouse looks more sprayed than sewn. Undulating construction: the Bar jacket for Spring-Summer 2025 reveals a removable front panel on either side of its horsehair-reinforced hips; the spirit of the eighteenth century shakes up the gardens of Alice in Wonderland. 155 hours of work, 10 pieces of fabric, not to mention the basques and sleeves, and the craftsmanship must meet one requirement: “We need the structure to keep the shape. But if it's too stiff, you lose the lightness. With the fabric, we progress step by step.  It's a matter of feeling.” 

Every adjustment and pattern involve a particularly subtle study of shape and interlining.  A back in wool and silk, a coat in satin-backed faille reinforced on the inside with taffeta, all require hours of patience and ironing to get them into shape, without damaging or scorching the fibres... And then there's the ironing and steaming to fix the fibres, otherwise the fabric shrinks. Skirts mounted on metal structures and box dresses are matched by spider-like blouses in iridescent tulle. 

“Maria Grazia decides everything, down to the handmade buttons. Even when everything is structured, she loves movement...” says the first workshop tailor.  

 Black butterflies land randomly on fishnet, the pale sky of a cape is embroidered with delicate sheaves of raffia wheat. Not a single pair of trousers, the so-called ‘cicada’ skirts set the tone: "You have to do stitches, but the important thing is that it always stays alive...”