Burç Akyol - Best of Love
Burç Akyol speaks to Laurence Benaïm about his references and his headspace ahead of his show on the opening day of Paris Fashion Week®.
"Seventh collection, 4th show, and the 2nd during Fashion Week. It's not a return to our roots; there are too many of them. It's about honing the pillars. Taking an honest look at them. Talking about what's beautiful to offer. Putting my guts on the line, everything that's closest to my heart. There are a lot of constructed silhouettes, but with a draped element that rounds out the movement. The Orient feels real, more intrinsic.
Why the focus on Dreux [in the Loire Valley]?
Because that's where I'm from, having grown up in all sorts of communities, from Turkish to Moroccan to Pakistani. In the suburbs, we always helped each other, there was a sense of shared history. As it happens, the Berçot school closed down, and I met a student who was also born in Dreux, and who was left without an internship agreement. She had all the dreams, but none of the codes. Every Monday evening, I try to guide her. I'd take her on as an intern so that she can move forward. I can see how much we have in common. We both come with an open wound, but we're ready to take on anything.
"Made in Dreux" is for my tailor father. This adversity has created beauty, and even more enthusiasm. I'm very resilient.
As for my pillar references? I call them Best of Love, a compilation of the best love songs: Simon and Garfunkel, Maria Carey, W Houston, Elton John, Billy Joel. It's like a stroll down memory lane. I wanted to soak up the emotions I felt [when listening to] my Walkman. It's the preview soundtrack for the show. For the show, I'm working with the group Legacy. There are thirty looks. The black is illuminated by touches of colour, starting with bougainvillea pink. The sophistication is still there, but I'm trying to bring it into the day-to-day, through exclusive day wear: a warmer jacket cut from an unexpected material, or cargo trousers but in a magnificent powder grain.
I'm a French designer, my identity is Parisian. We accept that there are going to be more facets. The important thing is to hold your craft in your hands. Embroidering the sky for those who look at it. Adding poetry to discipline. Reclaiming the cedilla in my first name. It's all there, just like the message inscribed on these yoga trousers: 'I know you are tired; but come, this is the way.’ It is about sending a message of hope, to stay strong through adversity."
This interview has been lightly edited.