AMI SPRING-SUMMER 2025

At 288 boulevard Saint Germain, the setting is a disused bank destined to become a hotel. No decor, just a slightly powdered light. It's a collection to be admired, to be experienced like a dreamy afternoon in Paris, between two shores, where a gentle breeze caresses the stones of Lutetia, an afternoon of terraces and longings for elsewhere; a weekend in Rome or a beautiful escape to Westport? This was perhaps the most tender of all the AMI shows, with pleated petticoats and white shirts, a cinematheque of skin-deep moments, a white villa, a palette of Left Bank spices, tee shirt jackets, an olive green frock coat worn with bare feet, oversized checks and strict proportions, red instead of lipstick. A controlled nonchalance, fresh butter bib shirts, slipper loafers and a confident gait by Vittoria Ceretti, Audrey Marney, Mona Tougaard, Aymeline Valade, Malick Bodian, Clément Chabernaud, Jeanne Cadieu and Leon Dame, who pass each other like cabin neighbours, on board a crossing on the deck of an imaginary, but very solidly armed ship, in the bed of the wind, from the Seine to the East River. 

But nothing is uniformly wasp, the seduction is revealed in the play of shadows on the skin, these openings, these slits, this line in freedom. And the ship sails on, like the live sequel to the film directed by Dominique Miceli. Alexandre Mathiussi, established as the little prince of this new easy chic à la française, in the wake of Hermès and Celine.  

Laurence Benaïm