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Figures Materialise at Rains

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For Fall-Winter 2024, Rains continues to make its mark on Paris Fashion Week by spinning a new narrative out of its humble beginnings: the humble rain jacket. With projections to become a €200 million business in the next five years, the Danish outerwear lifestyle brand pared things back with their presentation to allow its audience to look closer at the craftsmanship and detail that goes into one of its special runway creations. The slower-paced immersive experience witnessed models snaking through the show space before they were scanned and 3-D printed into smaller figures.

Co-founders Philip Lotko and Daniel Brix Hesselager considered uniforms and how they have the possibility to allow the wearer to interpret them through their own lens. Individualism, they asserted, is more important than ever. It manifested in the ensuing looks, which spanned a palette nodding to retrofuturism. Mainly, some recalled slick flight suits while others could resemble dressing gowns or house coats. Models wore 3-D printed slides, a continuation of their collaboration with Zellerfeld, the German footwear company. There were pieces that suggested tarpaulins used as protection from the elements. Ultimately, the endless interpretations of the rain jacket felt modern and desirable, even if the garment isn’t inherently sexy. “Our ambition is to leave a big mark on Paris,” said Lotko, in a Zoom call, alongside his co-founder, Brix Hesselager. By Paul McLauchlan.

Could you tell us more about this season’s theme?

 

Daniel Brix Hesselager: ‘Figures’ is the basis of our theme. We wanted to explore the idea of repetition which is very much reflecting what is going on in the world right now; it’s about going back to normal and things happening again and again. At the show, we’ll be scanning each look which will then be replicated in small 3-D print figures. 

Philip Lotko: Our tendency is to create uniforms but it’s how you create a uniform that still allows you to be an individual and embrace your own personality. For me, it’s about being yourself despite everything that is happening in the world. There’s something true about sticking to your DNA, both as a brand and as a person. 

 

What would you like us to know about the presentation format?

 

PL: We’re doing a presentation this season to challenge ourselves to think outside the traditional runway format. We wanted to create a more immersive experience for our guests but we didn’t want to approach it like a smaller runway. This will give people an opportunity to delve further into our universe. We feel like this collection is even closer to our DNA within outerwear. We’re leaning into those shapes to stimulate the idea that you can have a uniform but also [maintain a sense of individualism]. We’ve added some layers to our classic silhouettes. Our strength remains that we’ve been so good at keeping our focus on what’s already within our universe and staying true to that. It also allows us to be more innovative when it comes to how we interpret the PU-coated fabrics in more interesting shapes, playful and expressive silhouettes. 

 

How important is the use of technology in what Rains produces?

 

DBH: Over the last three to five years, one of the biggest extensions we’ve done is insulated outerwear. We’ve transformed the brand from a ‘rainwear’ label to an outerwear label. The whole technical aspect of pulling that dimension closer to our product has been really challenging. This season, we’re focusing on light-padded jackets and light-padded products. We’re becoming a very clean Scandinavian brand and we’re moving towards being bolder. We’re also adding a layer of more sophisticated thin insulation which is dominating the looks in the collection. Technology has the power to challenge the creative process and the perception of creativity. In 2024, I don’t think it’s going to change the industry but it’s going to challenge the creative minds behind the brands and it could become a source of inspiration. It’s quite significant for technology to go from being used as a tool to an inspiration.

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