In a few short seasons, Kegel has become an arbiter of taste in her own right. The show opens with a model in lingerie who starts dressing herself in a white shirt, long trousers, and a V-neck sweater: office appropriateness, the Julie Kegels way. She expanded on the upmarket lifestyle by listing off some familiar tropes like tailoring and hunting jackets. Other looks take cues from furniture design such as wood panels printed on lacquered leather, silk, and poplin; some leather pieces resemble tufted cushions. T-shirts printed with photographs of chairs, made by the designer’s friends who work in the furniture industry, are commercial grabs but playful nevertheless. The closing look recalls the opening with the same white shirt, long trousers, and simple V-neck sweater. This time, they are spliced together as a tracksuit, upending cliched power dressing. Dressing for success is easy, after all.
“It was about the illusion of success in how style and design can shape perception,” said the designer on a video call from her Antwerp studio.
What would you like us to know about the collection?
The name of the collection is ‘Dress Code.’ The inspiration comes from Judith Price’s book Executive Style: Achieving Success Through Good Taste and Design from the 1980s. The book appealed to me because she explains how to become successful by putting the right materials together [along with] the right furniture. She describes it in such a simple way that I found it funny. It’s like, achieving success is actually as simple as that. So I researched furniture and garments like suits, hunting jackets, shoulder pads, and pointy shoes – how they communicate a very powerful look.
Where do you look for inspiration?
Inspiration can come from anywhere and it can come at any place or time. But this season, it was the book. Another initial point for this collection was a conversation with my friend; we always talk and challenge each other with our conversations. It helps me get further and further into the process [of design].
How do you think your brand can spark desire when there is so much happening in the world?
Today, it’s important to be authentic because there is, indeed, a lot going on. You have to remain true to your heart and work with passion; because otherwise, it’s a boring brand.
What defines elegance in a contemporary context?
I find someone elegant when they are true to themselves. When they are in their most natural state, they feel they are confident with how they are, and they don’t care about what people are thinking of them.
From your first collection to now, what are the biggest learnings you have taken from your experience?
You can’t do everything. It’s a lot to have a fashion brand and to control every aspect of it. You can do everything well and if you trust people who can do certain parts for you, you can do it better. I learned that my main focus is creativity, and I’m super lucky to have people beside me that can support me with everything else. I like spending hours on garments and trying to give them soul and meaning.
This interview has been lightly edited.
