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Hermès: Paradox as a guiding principle

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“Paradox as a guiding principle.” The theme of the Hermès Autumn-Winter show sets the tone. Here, in the minimalist clarity of the Palais d'Iena, a major masterpiece designed by the architect Auguste Perret, the lines and materials interact in what Véronique Nichanian describes as an “interplay of shapes and counter-shapes, cuts and cut-outs.” A graphic spirit, shrouded in “sharp volumes" that provide these pea coats, water-repellent cashmere jackets and cocoon coats with the impression that luxury is a manifesto: protection without weight.

Extending tradition through innovation – the details are what set these designs apart, whether a slanted “saddle pocket” or a shirt with a “surprise fold.” In a masterful fade-in of khakis, basalt, petroleum anise, heather, crocus pumpkin, flint, brown and peat, black emerges a subtle palette of its own. Double-breasted coats, reversible teddy parka jackets and high-collared zip-up sweatshirts seem to move from outside to inside with chameleon-like fluidity; the 'flannel stag' demonstrates how skin is crafted like fabric and how fabric – Prince of Wales wool, compact cotton poplin – fuses with each silhouette to convey a sense of comfort, a sense of travel, a sense of the cross-over between the office and the countryside.  Through both rigour and suppleness, the functional and the beautiful merge. Once night falls, there is no protocol, and the tailored trousers worn with neo-silks soften the very idea of an invitation, drastically dismantling whatever remotely betrays movement for the sake of duty. A prodigious lesson in allure.