Jeanne Friot - Crazy In Love

Somewhere between an essay and a piece of autofiction, her collection unfolds in a narrative akin to Maggie Nelson, author of (The Argonauts). “Making reality your own.” The collection reflects Friot’s own image – or rather that of her loved one, and takes the form of a 56-piece inspired declaration. The wardrobe is dedicated to Delphine Rafferty, her other half, who after being Kristelle Koché's muse, dancing for La Horde, designing sets for Desigual, and learning electricity and plumbing, created "Les femmes du bâtiment" just a year ago. Delphine is even part of the totally genderless cast who correspond to the designer's motto for the season: Coming out. She describes it as "a wardrobe that is both real and imaginary, and that explores our lack of references, apart from fantasized images of the garçonne.”

"I took up the palimpsest of paint stains and used powerful symbols, like the key hanging from a snap hook. One of the most beautiful gestures in love is to hand over your keys,” she continues. A surreal dress embroidered with almost 50 keys is the masterpiece of this collection, made entirely from recycled Nona Source fabrics. The mastery of the cut is enhanced by an intense palette of yellows, blacks and violets that sound like the notes of a woven score. And from Sonia Rykiel to Vivienne Westwood, the influence of fashion's female masters shines through – without parody, but with a solid rethink.

Tartan coats, “trashy” denim sweaters, second-skin dresses printed with belts (a nod to the couture piece created in one night for Madonna), overalls – their strength lies in the structure and the eye that sets it in motion. As for the seven-league boots, they reflect a more-than-responsible approach: "They were already made from recycled leather. They were red, so we repainted them black. The factory shut down.”