Lecavalier’s Vulnerability and Strength

This season marks Marie-Ève Lecavalier’s first on the Paris Fashion Week calendar. The Montreal-based designer develops design and media projects around research into social and material areas of interest – from subcultures to leather workmanship. She founded her namesake label in 2016 and received the Chloé Prize at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion in 2018. She was also among this year’s nominees for the LVMH Prize.

How do you define the future?

It’s quite unpredictable at the moment with everything that is happening; but somehow, I am positive about it.

Why is the future such an important element of fashion?

Fashion will always be part of the human and social construct. It will always keep defining and telling a story of the era we are living in. It is always linked to social issues and will always be political even if it can seem superficial at times.

What is one global or social issue currently shaping fashion’s future?

I think waste and production are key topics to rethink at the moment. The creatives of my generation face a different reality than previous eras where the idea of consumption was not even discussed. We are part of a movement that is rethinking the entire research, development and production process in order to use fabric and trimmings in a more clever and flexible way than those before us. We need to adapt our entire way of working. This has been feeding my creative process: doing a lot with less but with what is available.

What is one thing we can start doing now that could positively impact our future? 

I think we should start thinking more about the human side of the fashion industry, which was always built on free or cheap labour. There should be more equality and kindness in the entire process, which at the end of the day, seems to benefit a particular circle of people. There are so many steps and people involved in the entire process of a fashion collection and we should acknowledge this. 

Your wish for the future?

I wish to have the opportunity to express myself through my work. In life, it’s a luxury to do what you love every day, and I hope to be able to give back to my community and involve more and more people from where I am from. Obviously, the goal is also that LECAVALIER becomes a luxury house with offices between Montreal and Paris.

Do you think about the future when creating a collection?

My collections are usually created from a state of mind that I am in at that very moment. I always love to analyse what is going on socially and globally – to bring this into what I do. 

What is the most defining idea or look in this collection?

The most defining idea in this collection is vulnerability and strength at the same time – from the patterns to the textile treatment. We are visually playing with both.

How does this collection compare to your past collections?

I think this collection is a bit more delicate than in the past. But at the same time, it is more complex. 

What remains constant across the past, present, and future of fashion?

I would say textile, craftsmanship and garment construction. These three elements are essential to a real designer, but also for me, the elements that I prefer to play with and innovate.

This interview has been lightly edited for clarity.